BEDE 4

The basis for the design of the model was a modern American amateur four-seater plane, which is very suitable for building the model due to its simple shapes.

BUILDING THE MODEL does not make special demands on the modeler's experience. In addition, the plan and description of the building are detailed.
For the construction, we choose balsa of medium hardness without traces of the saw cut and hairs, preferably harder for the wing slats. The skeleton of the model is glued with Kanagom acetone glue or Hercules glue.

Hull. We cut out exactly all the parts that we traced using carbon paper on the plywood. We glue the balsa planks to the required width, redraw the shape of the sides 1 on them and cut them both out at the same time with a sharp knife. We stick reinforcements 7 and 8 on the front part of the sidewalls (pay attention to the right and left!). We pin both side panels to the plan placed on the worktop and glue the partitions 2, 3, 4 and the control lever beam 9. After drying, we insert the engine bed 10 at the same time as the finished fuel tank. We press the sides to the bed (band it with rubber) and insert the bulkhead 11, parts of the front 12, 13 and filling 14. Then we glue the bulkheads 5 and 6, making sure that the axis of the hull is straight. In the upper part, we will add reinforcements 15 and 16 for gluing the wing and on the left side from the inside plate 17, which reinforces the holes for the control rods.

After removing the fuselage from the worktops, we complete bulkhead 18 with attached landing gear and lower cover (leaving only a gap for access to the nut of the control lever screw). We attach the control lever 19 with all the rods to the beam 9 (we pass it through the upper part between partitions 5 and 4). We glue the finished elevator and attach the lever 20 with the second part of the rod 21. We secure the control lever and the rudder in the middle position, adjust the length of both parts of the rod 21 and carefully connect them together (to connect the rod we can use an insert with screws from the chandelier clamp) and finish the upper cover . In the front part, we only glue the board of the lower removable cover 22 in spots and sand the entire front part of the fuselage to the appropriate shape. We must not forget to close the pipes of the fuel tank to prevent dust from entering it. After tearing off the lid, we glue two crossbars 23 fitting tightly between the sides of the fuselage. We attach the lid with threaded wire, which we glue with epoxy in the opening of the engine bed and nipple 24.

We bend the chassis from steel wire. We fasten the front leg 25 with a plate 26 and nuts to the screws, which we glue with epoxy in bulkhead 2. We insert and solder a piece of wire into the grooves in their heads as an anti-rotation fuse before we glue it to the hull.
We sew the main chassis 27 with a thick thread and glue it to the bulkhead 18, which we firmly glue to the hull. We secure the wheels by soldering small washers on both sides. It must rotate easily, watch out for solder paste or acid leakage when soldering. We immediately "lubricate" them with gasoline, spin them thoroughly and drip oil.

The wing has no risers, so we can assemble it completely on the worktop on the plan. We work the lead rail 28 and the drain rail 29 into shape and pin them to the plan. (The riser bar can be made without gluing from a board with a thickness of 10 mm.) Between the two bars, we stick ribs 30 and 31, cut with a sharp knife according to a sheet metal or plywood template. We will either glue the end arches from several ribs 30 and 31 or make them from a prism of soft balsa. Into the right arch we embed and glue a lead weight with epoxy, to the left - until after coating - we block and glue the guide eyes 32. We glue tapes 33 to the lower plane of the wing. We carefully glue the finished wing to the upper side of the fuselage, preferably after it has been coated.
For transporting the model in public transport, as well as for complete beginners in piloting, we can recommend a removable wing, tied in the usual way with rubber over a bamboo peg} glued to the fuselage.

The tail surfaces are made of solid balsa board, which we glue to the required width from narrower boards. We grind the outlet part into a wedge, we round the lead. We stick it in the cut-out in the sides of the fuselage before gluing the top cover. We glue the steering wheel with the rear part permanently deflected to the right to the fuselage bluntly and precisely perpendicularly.

Management. We will make the main control lever 19 for the hull and lever 20 for the rudder from sheet metal. We thread rods 34 into the holes in the longer arms of the lever 19, connect them and thread the front part of the rod 21 into the hole in the shorter arm. It is a bicycle wire with a head on which we file the landing part. We fasten the thus assembled lever 19 with the screw and nut to the hull on the beam 9. We make eyelets on the rods 34 for hanging the control wires. Similarly, we thread the second part of the rod 21 into the lever 20. we screw the lever to the rudder and connect the rod in the neutral steering position.
The entire steering must move easily, it must not jam, but the holes for the tie rod 21 in both levers must have only minimal play. We secure the nuts securing both levers with glue.

A tethered semi-model of the BEDE 4 sports aircraft

Engine installation. The MVVS 1.5 D engine is drawn on the plan. For another engine, the cut-out in the engine bed 10, or in the front part of the hull 12, needs to be modified. The fuel tank is either bought ready-made or welded from brass or tin plate thick. 0.2 - 0.3 mm and copper pipes 0 3/0 2 mm. We will glue it to the hull with epoxy, as was already discussed. There is no access to the tank in the finished hull, so it must be flushed and tested for leaks by air pressure in water before installation. When testing the model, a wooden propeller 0 180/100 mm was used; it can be even by 0 200 mm. We fasten it with a two-part cone of 0 28 mm brand IGRA.
Since the delivered MVVS 1.5 D engines have the carburetor needle on the right side, it is necessary to dismantle the nozzle and fix it from the opposite side. In doing so, we make sure that the hole in the nozzle faces the inside of the suction hole of the diffuser.

Coating, surface treatment. We sand the skeleton of the model with fine sandpaper, paint it once with clear nitro lacquer and sand it again. We then cover the entire model with a medium-thick coating paper and paint it with a clear nitro varnish about three times, the wing four times. Each layer of varnish can be lightly sanded after drying, if the surface is not completely smooth.
Lightly spray the painted model with a light-colored nitro lacquer (beware of excessive weight gain!). Stripes on the fuselage, letters and cabin windows are marked with dark paint (e.g.